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As readers, we watch these two young women come of age. Lavinia marries the young heir to the plantation. How can she reconcile her new position with her past loyalties? Belle’s love for a fellow slave conflicts with her father’s vision of a free life for her far away in Philadelphia. In “Southern Cooking, Global Flavors,” Kenny Gilbert, a personal chef for Oprah Winfrey, shares Southern recipes from his Midwest and Southern upbringing as well as what he’s gleaned from cooking in kitchens around the world. In over 100 recipes, Gilbert builds on Southern staples like fried chicken and biscuits, offering a Korean-inspired version with gochujang and an Italian take that adds garlic, basil and Asiago cheese to the biscuit.
Pass the Persimmon Hot Sauce
It’s built in layers, with a homemade broth, seasoned red pepper paste called dadaegi, tofu and a variety of fillings to choose from. Just like at the restaurant, you adjust the heat and fillings to your liking. Using her many thorough tips and the recipe for the combination soon tofu, I was able to recreate the magic of my first visit to her restaurant through the pages of “Sohn-Mat.” — J.H. Abi Balingit has brought us an energetic, playful cookbook that is all about Filipino American and Filipino-inspired sweets. Balingit, who is based in New York but grew up in California, has ordered the book in a kind of journey that takes us from the Philippines through different locales in Northern California before ending up in Brooklyn, where she currently resides. Personal stories and reflections are woven in and out of recipes for cakes, candies and kakanin (desserts made with rice and coconut milk).
Filipinx: Heritage Recipes From the Diaspora
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Leah Koenig’s seventh cookbook, “Portico,” is her deep dive into the Jewish cuisine of Rome. Beautiful photographs and vignettes of Rome’s Jewish history, culinary personalities and accomplished home cooks are interspersed among recipes that reflect the foodways of Rome’s Jewish community past and present. Each page reads as deliciously if not more so than the next. Sofreh in Farsi means “spread,” the traditional tablecloth for serving meals.
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Belle’s mother died shortly after she was born. Belle’s white grandmother raised her in the big house. She was taught to read and write, and James treated her like his daughter for much of her childhood. However, when James marries Martha, he moves Belle to the kitchen house to become a slave so that Martha won’t be aware of the girl’s kinship to her husband. James still favors Belle, and Martha and their son, Marshall, assume that Belle is James’s mistress.
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Galuten, who also co-authored “On Vegetables” with Jeremy Fox and “Bludso’s BBQ” with Kevin Bludso, writes accessible recipes for many scenarios. “I want you to know how to make a vegetable rice bowl and an aggressively healthful smoothie — but to also be able to make pasta and tomato sauce at the last minute for six people who you did not realize were suddenly staying for dinner,” he writes. He also walks through how to set up your pantry and fridge so that you actually are able to do so. Dimayuga co-authored the book with Ligaya Mishan, who writes for the New York Times and is always the first person I suggest people read when they tell me they’re interested in food writing. “Filipinx” is written first-person in Dimayuga’s voice, and certainly it conveys her exuberant spirit and keen, connective mind. But when I read lines such as “My first music was kundiman, love songs with doom written in their bones,” I can sense Mishan’s poetry and genius moving through the language.
Adler also helps repurpose takeout, such as one recipe that turns the dregs of a burrito into fried rice. Lavinia is only six in 1791, when her parents die aboard ship and the captain, James Pyke, brings her to work as an indentured servant at Tall Oaks, his Virginia plantation. Pyke’s illegitimate daughter Belle, chief cook (and alternate narrator with Lavinia), takes reluctant charge of the little white girl. Belle and the other house slaves, including Mama Mae and Papa George, their son Ben, grizzled Uncle Jacob and youngsters Beattie and Fanny, soon embrace Lavinia as their own.
To be the finest food city in the country and might be biased on that count but doesn’t believe she’s wrong. Chewy and gooey, not too sweet, with crispy edges and a hint of salt are key characteristics that L.A. African American contributions to mixology are too often overlooked, says Toni Tipton-Martin, and her book “Juke Joints, Jazz Clubs & Juice” operates as a way to remedy that. Tipton-Martin focuses on Black traditions in imbibing going back centuries, to African fermentation practices. You’ll find versions of recognizable favorites like Manhattans, Sidecars and mint juleps as well as drinks you might be unfamiliar with, like something called a Beet-A-Rita, from chef Hoover Alexander’s restaurant Hoover’s Cooking in Austin.
In 1791, Lavinia, a seven-year-old Irish orphan, becomes an indentured servant on a Virginia tobacco plantation. Although she is white, she is raised by a slave family with whom she develops close emotional ties. One of its members is Belle, who also lives on the margins of two different worlds because she is the greatly loved, illegitimate daughter of the master of the plantation. The reader is drawn into the interconnected lives of two families, one white and free, the other black and enslaved. Most of the novel is told in Lavinia’s first-person voice, with shorter chapters narrated by Belle.
Community Reviews
Friday night dinners might include fig and pomegranate brisket or sweet potatoes with miso tahini butter. For Saturday lunch you might be served jachnun or cauliflower hamin with shug-a-churri sauce. Se’uda shlishit (the third meal of the day) might feature a crispy eggplant and goat cheese tart or roasted kohlrabi, cherry tomato and feta salad. Perhaps apricot tahini shortbread bars, pistachio frangipane and blood orange galette or frozen mango and pomegranate pops.
Previously, she was the senior West Coast editor at Thrillist, where she covered food, drink and travel across the California region. She grew up across San Diego and Riverside and has happily called Los Angeles home for more than 15 years. Some very fine books have entered the world when accomplished editors take a pause from shepherding others’ words to seize the title of “writer” for themselves. You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
The recipes are just as heartfelt, like farmer Leah Penniman’s soup Joumou, which is traditionally eaten every New Year on Haitian Independence Day, and a summer cocktail from the owners of Crown Heights bar Ode to Babel, Marva and Myriam Babel. Who among us wasn’t buoyed by the mid-pandemic “Don’t Panic Pantry” livestream show from chef-comedian couple Noah Galuten and iliza Shlesinger? Thanks to both for bringing levity and drunken pantry pasta and Chengdu chai and grandma pizza and Caesar-ish salad into our lives.
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